The Concorde aeroplane is something special. Instantly recognised the world over, still looking
futuristic even though it was retired from active service several years ago.
As we live near London Heathrow airport, I've heard the unmistakeable thunder of Concorde's 4 jet
engines many times, although I never had an opportunity to fly in one myself. In March 2010 I was
treated to a close encounter with one of the retired Concordes of which you can see some pictures
here. (Read on after the pics)
On the left is a sample cross section of the fuselage in the same shape that Dennis P did. I'm not too sure about the strength of this so my fuselage will be a bit less rounded to make the corner section stronger, like the picture on the right. | ||
After deciding on the shape of the top of the fuselage, next job was to amend the drawings to allow for 6 mm depron instead of 5 mm depron, cut out the fuselage sides, formers and reinforment strips and put them all together, like this : | ||
The fuselage top goes on next (2 layers) and once the glue has dried the top of the fuselage is sanded to give that rounded roof line. | ||
At the front of the fuselage we need to add the nose section and at the back the tail section. Both of these are made up of 10 identical pieces each, which are glued together and then sanded to the right shape. This picture shows the separate nose pieces, and above it the tail pieces which are already glued together. | ||
Next is the very messy job of sanding down those blocks to the much more rounded shape that they need to become. Here are the tail (left) and nose (right) partially completed. The final sanding will be done when they are attached to the fuselage, so they blend together. | ||
I cut out the 2 sheets making up the wings plus the tail fin and as we now have all the main
parts I couldn't resist pushing them together to get an idea of what we're heading for. Looking
pretty already ! At this point the total weight is 210 grams; I expect the final weight (ready to fly) will be around 600 grams. |
16 April 2010. It's time to put the wings together. The electrical wires go in between the 2 sheets so they will be invisible later on. On the left you see the top of the bottom sheet, with the wires and the carbon fibre rod that I added for some extra rigidity of the wing. On the right I have glued the top & bottom sheets together; you're now looking at the underside of the wing. | ||
And this is what the top of the wing looks like. The wires feed directly into the fuselage at the top; underneath they will feed into the engine housings ('nacelles') so they will be completely hidden from view. I did create some grooves in between the wing sheets for the wires to run through. As a result the wing remains completely flat even with the wires inside it. | ||
The nose and the front of the wing are the most vulnerable parts of this plane. The wing can be given some reinforcement to limit damage from any hard landings. On the left you see a small piece of pine wood sitting on the join of 2 depron sheets. After gluing and a lot of sanding, it can be made to look like the picture on the right. The ruler is in centimetres by the way. | ||
And here it is on the real wing. This is that strip of pine being glued to the front of the wing; it is thin enough to be bent to the shape of the wing. The masking tape will keep it in place until the glue has dried. | ||
1 May 2010. The glue has dried and the tape has been removed. It's holding ! Next it's time for some more sanding all along that curvy edge, rounding off the pine strip and blending it in with the rest of the wing. |
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The 'belly' of the Concorde is quite a complex shape. The back of the nose and the front of the tail cone join with the bottom of the wing and fade away into it. Instead of doing this with a 6 mm piece of depron, I used 2 3mm pieces which were sanded separately (and differently) before they were glued together. |
Time to make up the engine housings ('nacelles'). Starting with the flat cut outs, the reinforcement strips are added and then the formers. The servo's are also set up and glued into place while we have such good access. If these servo's were ever to go wrong in future it will mean some proper surgery to replace them, so they are double/triple checked at this stage. | ||
The sides are now joined together via the formers and the front of the housing is sanded into
shape. In the picture on the right you can see 'before sanding' (left) and 'after sanding' (right).
Next these engine housings need to be glued underneath the wing but before I do that I need to finish off that part of the wing while access is easy. |
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The control surfaces at the back of the wing ('ailerons' and 'flaps') are cut out, and then re-attached via some tiny hinges which allow these surfaces to move up and down (by means of those servos mentioned earlier) which provides the 'steering'. For the experts amongst you : the ailerons and flaps will be fixed together via a torque rod and then set up in elevon configuration as there won't be any rudder. | ||
7 May 2010. Here's another dry-fit of the fuselage and wing : | ||
Plus a short video clip (3.5 MB, WMV format) | ||
14 May 2010. Here's a view of the underside of the wing. The control surfaces are in place as are the torque rods. The torque rod is a way to link up control surfaces, such that the movement of one control surface causes the other to move as well. | ||
Next I made up some motor mounts from a double layer of liteply and fitted them to the nacelles with some 30 min epoxy glue as this will take all the power and vibrations directly from the motors. Fitted the motors and soldered the speed controllers on. Each motor has its own speed controller even though they will always be running at approx the same revs. | ||
21 May 2010. The nacelles are glued to the wing, the electronics are all connected up (through to the other side of the wing) and the ailerons are connected to the servos. | ||
Finally the covers are glued on and a hatch is made for future access to the motors and electronics. |
28 May 2010. It's all starting to come together now, and here's an alternative use for books! Used to hold down the wing onto the fuselage while the glue is drying. Also very useful is sticky back plastic, normally used for book covers, but I quite like it for covering model aeroplanes with, it's quick, reasonably easy to apply, cheap, and gives a lovely shine to the depron. It also adds strength because it will resist bending of the depron. No prizes here for guessing which wing is covered and which isn't. | ||
4 June 2010. More covering with sticky back plastic and doing a little bit of painting as
well, in black ! The little blue/red circle is to mark where the center of gravity (CoG) needs to be. It is important to get that right or else the plane will not fly at all. The position of the battery will be adjusted to ensure that the COG ends up exactly where it needs to be. The bits of depron around the little circle are just there to give me something to hold on to while launching the plane. I'm not planning to add any landing gear so it will be hand launch only. |
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11 June 2010. Completed most of the covering and most of the decals. The decals are made with waterslide decal inkjet paper. You create the decals on your PC and print them on this special paper. Then seal the ink with some spray varnish and leave to dry. Finally submerge in water for approx 1 minute and slide onto the model, slowly sliding off the backing paper. Leave to dry. I applied the decals directly to the depron and then put the sticky back plastic on top. This keep the decals clean but means that you only get 1 chance to apply the plastic covering as the plastic easily pulls off the decals from the depron. | ||
18 June 2010. Done !! We're ready for the first flight. All-up weight with a 1300 mAh LiPo
battery is 695 grams, this is a bit more than I expected but well within the expected range. Fired up the motors with the propellors fitted and there is plenty of pull, drawing around 200 Watts. This is over the recommended 100 W/lb for 'sporty' flying so the plane has ample power for its weight. Here are some more pics. |
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Plus another short video clip (7 MB, WMV format) |
In order to achieve the recommended Centre of Gravity (CoG), Dennis P had to hollow out part
of the cockpit area in order to put the battery far enough forward. My motor set up must be much
lighter than his, because in my Concorde the battery needs to go BEHIND the area where the hatch
is (to the left of the hatch on the picture). The battery is dropped in through the hatch,
pushed 90% into the compartment to the left of the hatch, and then I use a small block of polystyrene
to fill up the area below the hatch to stop the battery from moving forwards during flight. PS the battery position was subsequently changed from this, see the notes on Flying below. |
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The tail fin is now just a flat surface. In the early pics you can see I had 2 strips of depron on there but that made it very tricky to cover with decals. Only the experts will notice that it's missing. | |
The battery is accessed via a small hatch just behind the cockpit which is not that quick to get access to, so I've added a power switch that is easily accessible from the outside. This cuts the power to the receiver (and therefore also the power to the speed controllers and the servo's). | |
With 200 Watts of power going to the motors, the battery will need some cooling. Two small plastic tubes just behind the battery hatch make up the air intake which feeds cool air into the compartment where the battery is. | |
An air intake is no good without an air outlet in order to create a flow of cooling air so here it is, right at the end of the fuselage, underneath. | |
Not shown in the drawings but essential for a hand launch is a decent grip. Just a few pieces of depron in the right place should be sufficient. |